Water leak: turn off the water, we'll find and fix the leak 24/7

1. Turn off the water — Look for the small isolation valve under the sink, behind the toilet or on the washing machine supply. If the leak doesn't stop, close the main stopcock, usually near the water meter (cellar, utility cupboard or service duct on the landing).
2. Make the electrics safe — If water is near a socket, an appliance or a ceiling light, switch off that circuit at the fuse box. Don't touch wet appliances.
3. Limit the damage — Mops, a bowl, towels. Move anything that water would ruin. In a flat, warn the neighbour below and the property manager if water is coming through. If you rent, let your landlord or letting agent know too.
4. Take photos — Photograph the leak and the damage before cleaning up: it helps us quote, and it helps your insurance claim.

Big leak and can't find the stopcock? Call us: we'll help you find it over the phone while our technician sets off.

No puddle, but a water bill that keeps climbing, or the sound of water in the pipes? Your water meter can tell you within a few hours whether you have a leak.

• Signs to look for: unusually high water use, damp patches on walls or ceilings, bubbling paint, mould, a floor starting to lift, water running into the toilet pan, a water heater safety valve that drips all the time.
• Call us if the meter keeps moving, a patch is spreading, or you can hear water running with everything shut off.

1. Turn everything off — Taps, toilet, washing machine, dishwasher: nothing should be drawing water.
2. Read the meter — Take a photo of the numbers on the water meter.
3. Wait — A few hours, or overnight, without using any water.
4. Compare — If the reading has moved, water is escaping somewhere: you have a leak.

Hidden leak inside a wall or under the floor? If it isn't somewhere accessible, it may need non-destructive leak detection by a specialist firm. We don't do that kind of search (thermal camera, tracer gas). We find and repair leaks on accessible parts. More on this: water leak: first steps.

Under the sink or basin

A loose trap, a worn seal or a split supply hose. The most common leak, and usually quick to fix: we replace the part on the spot.

At the toilet

The isolation valve, the supply connection or the seal between the pan and the waste. On a wall-hung toilet the leak can come from the concealed frame. If water keeps running into the bowl, see toilet flush repair.

Washing machine, dishwasher

Damaged inlet or waste hose, loose fitting. We also check the trap the appliance drains into.

Pipe, wall or ceiling

A stain spreading across the ceiling or a damp mark on a wall calls for a more thorough leak search. We start with what can be reached: joints, isolation valves, the manifold, waste pipes, bath and shower seals. If the leak is in a pipe buried in a wall or underground, we tell you plainly before touching anything.

Water heater

A dripping safety valve isn't always a fault. A leaking tank is. See water heater.

An accessible leak (washer, hose, trap, fitting) is usually fixed in a single visit. The price depends on the part, the access and the time of day: nights, weekends and public holidays may carry a surcharge.

Either way, you're given the total including VAT (17%) before we travel, and the quote is free. Full details on our prices.

If the leak has damaged your home or a neighbour's, report it to your home insurer straight away. Keep the photos, the invoice and the intervention report. In a shared building, tell the property manager. If you rent, tell your landlord in writing.

Who pays for the repair depends on where the leak came from, your lease and your insurance policies: check them or ask your insurer. We can't tell you what your policy covers, but our documents set out exactly where the leak came from and what was repaired.

A dripping tap or a slightly damp trap can wait until the next day if you put a container under it and keep an eye on it. Tell us: we'll book the job during the day.

For the basics, read water leak: first steps.